Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Skyland to Little Hogback Mountain


Hope everyone had a safe and enjoyable Memorial Day weekend.  Our campground was full; maybe not 100%, but very nearly.  The smell of woodsmoke and hamburgers permeated the air.  The garbage dumpster is full of beer bottles.  I guess, a good time was had by all.

Hazy views all day
We were out on the trail, of course.  Normally, we prefer to stay at home and away from the crowds at times like these.  However, our time here is slipping away and we still have several miles to go to reach our goal.  It just worked out that our hike Sunday coincided with the most popular trails in Shenandoah National Park as well as the holiday weekend.

Sunday, we hiked from Skyland near the stables to Thornton Gap passing along the way the trails to Stony Man, Little Stony Man, and Mary’s Rock.  We didn’t count, of course, but I think we can safely say we saw a couple hundred people on the trail that day.  Ten years ago, we hiked to all these features.  If you visit Shenandoah, I would recommend these hikes--they offer some great views.  Since we’ve “been there, done that”, we just kept moving through the crowds and past the overlooks.

Hogback Mountain
I hiked south, again, starting at Thornton Gap.  There is a large parking lot at what used to be the Panorama Restaurant.  I had read (or heard) that it was later a Gift Shop.  What it is now is restrooms--that’s all.  Nothing to eat; nothing to buy.

By the time I got the nearly 2 miles uphill to the cutoff to Mary’s Rock, I was plenty tired of going up, so I didn’t.  Mary’s Rock offers the best views in the park.  There were plenty of rock outcroppings along the ridge-line and I made a couple photos.  The morning was hot and muggy, so the view was hazy.  Gene somehow had the energy to go up to Mary’s Rock as he came past.  He was there later in the afternoon and the haze had lifted.  He had a better view, but not the camera.

Little Stony Man
We met for lunch at the Pinnacles Picnic area.  The trail passes just to the edge of the picnic area.  We were lucky to get a table; even luckier to get one in the shade.

As I passed Little Stony Man there were climbers repelling off the edge.  I saw a rope stretched across the trail.  I looked to my right and all I saw was a helmet disappearing below the rock.  I’ll keep my feet on the ground!

Yesterday, we hiked from Thornton Gap to just north of Little Hogback Mountain.  This was a little farther than we originally planned, but the overlook where we were going to park at the north end was closed for resurfacing.  The next parking area was only a half mile farther north, so decided to hike longer rather than going back south a mile and a half.

There were no exciting features along this stretch of trail.  There were a couple of views, but we were mostly in the woods.  The highlight of the day was stopping at Elkwallow Wayside.  Like the typical thru-hiker, neither of us could pass up a chance for food.  The wayside was 5 miles from where I started--a perfect morning break stop.  I got there at 10:30 and ordered the famous blackberry milkshake.  I met Gene about an hour later and just sat on the log while he ate his lunch.  When he passed the wayside, he stopped in for a milkshake as well.

Looking toward Stony Man
It turned out to be a 13 mile day and we were both really tired puppies last night.  Stopped for burgers on the way home and barely managed to get our showers before collapsing in our recliners.  Pretty pitiful compared to the thru-hikers who are doing 20-25 miles a day through this section.

All is well this morning, but no hiking today.  In fact, no hiking for a week.  Tomorrow we are going to move our home up the road about 100 miles to Winchester.  Also tomorrow, our RVing friends, Tony and Diana, will be checking into the same campground.  We’ll spend the next 5 days being tourists and enjoying their company.

That’s it for today.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Honoring Our Veterans


A friend sent this in an email to me earlier this week.  I wanted to share it with my readers as we celebrate Memorial Day.  Perhaps it will help us remember the reason for this holiday.

The photos are of Memorials we have visited in our travels this year.

MIA/POW Memorial, Robins AFB, Georgia

It is the VETERAN, not the preacher,
who has given us freedom of religion.

It is the VETERAN, not the reporter,
who has given us freedom of the press.

It is the VETERAN, not the poet,
who has given us freedom of speech.

It is the VETERAN, not the campus organizer,
who has given us freedom to assemble.

It is the VETERAN, not the lawyer,
who has given us the right to a fair trial.

It is the VETERAN, not the politician,
Who has given us the right to vote.

It is the VETERAN who salutes the Flag,

It is the VETERAN who serves under the Flag,

We can be very proud of our young men and women in the service no matter where they serve.

God Bless them all!!!

Andersonville Cemetery

Makes you proud to be an AMERICAN!!!!

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Shenandoah National Park


Well, we took a zero today instead of going back to finish the Central section of Shenandoah National Park.  There were several reasons; perhaps the chief of which was still tired from yesterday.  There was also more rain in the afternoon forecast.  Rain always puts a damper on my enthusiasm.  We had originally planned to take a zero today anyway since our friends, Diane and Zvi, were scheduled to reach Rockfish Gap today.  We were planning to pick them up when they came off the trail.  As it turned out, they got ahead of their schedule and reached the gap yesterday afternoon and were on the highway heading for Nashville before we got home ourselves.  It was yesterday evening when we decided we could hike today, but the motivation had evaporated by this morning.

I feel compelled to write a little about Shenandoah National Park.  We have visited this park several times in the past and always enjoy its beauty.  Our focus this time is hiking the AT along the ridge line which essentially parallels Skyline Drive.  We’re not seeing much of anything else the Park has to offer.

This is a hikers park.  In addition to the hundred miles of Appalachian Trail, there are some 500 more miles of trail on either side of Skyline Drive.  These trails, because they are generally accessed from Skyline Drive, can be easily turned into loop hikes by using the AT to connect with two or more trails.  Scattered along the AT about every 10 or 12 miles are shelters (or “huts” as they’re called within the Park) for overnight use by hikers.    There is also camping permitted in the backcountry with a permit.

If you like waterfalls, the Park has 9.  This spring would be a great time to visit the waterfalls since there has been so much rain this year.

Skyline Drive has 75 pull-outs which offers splendid views of the valleys below.  For the more adventuresome, hikes to the rocky summits of Hawksbill, Old Rag, Mary’s Rock, or the Pinnacles will put you on top of the world.  They say, on a very clear day, you can see the Washington Monument.

There are campgrounds at Loft Mountain, Lewis Mountain, and Big Meadows.  Big Meadows will accommodate larger rigs.  Of course, this is a National Park and there are no hook-ups; however, there are dump stations.  There are also lodges and cabins with soft beds and private showers.  Over the years, we’ve stayed in everything Shenandoah has to offer, especially the ground in the backcountry.

This is also a wildlife lovers park.  There is a huge population of deer here.  They are so habituated to humans they almost seem tame.  We can walk up to them on the trail and they seem not to notice.  They present somewhat of a driving hazard, however, and you have to be constantly alert for one to dart out onto the road.  Bears are everywhere, as well.  In the spring and summer, if you don’t see a bear at Shenandoah, you’re not paying attention.  Yesterday, I saw five.  They also have a habit of walking onto the road right in front of you.

One of the more special places to visit while in the park is Rapidan Camp.  Rapidan was  a summer retreat/fishing camp for President and Mrs Hoover.  You can walk down there and explore on your own or take the Ranger led tour which includes a ride down and back in the park van.

Anyway, I just wanted to let you know that Shenandoah is a marvelous place to visit, even if your not interested in pounding out the miles on the AT.

That’s it for today.  I’ll get back to my resting, and tomorrow morning we’ll hit the trail again.

Friday, May 28, 2010

Bootens Gap to Skyland


Before I get started with today’s adventure, let me just say that yesterday was nothing special.  We each had a few chores on our lists.  We had planned to work in a lot of resting, but somehow the chores took more time than anticipated which resulted in not much resting.  Oh well.

Trail passes Tanner Cemetery
We hurried out of the house early this morning.  We had a long hike planned as well as a long drive to the trail.  Thunderstorms were in the forecast for the afternoon, so we wanted to get as much hiking done as possible before the rains set in.  In my haste, I forgot to fix the cooler with cold drinks--something we have come to highly anticipate each afternoon.  Besides the cokes, I had bought candy to include in the cooler.  Really sorry I forgot that!

The trail passes the stables at Skyland

Gene dropped me off at the north end of the hike at the horse stables at Skyland.  He went back down to Bootens Gap where we finished on Wednesday.

View of Hawksbill
We had a long day (12.8 miles), but the hike was about the easiest we have had so far.  The terrain was gentle and the trail was in excellent condition. There were a few more rocks than we have been having, but those sections were short.

We had great views this morning.  There were several rock outcroppings which offered unobstructed views of Ida Valley and the surrounding mountains.  I stepped out at a few of these places, but since the view was the same each time, I went on without bothering to look every time.

View of Ida Valley

There were many hikers out today.  I saw more thru-hikers than on previous days and the weekend backpackers were out in full force.  Naturally, the holiday weekend has the vacationers out and I saw several family groups along the trail.  For the first time ever, I saw a young couple with their babies.  The husband was pushing the double stroller and the twins, who looked to be about 2 months old, were sleeping.  The stroller was wider than the trail.  I hope they got back to their car before the rains started.  And I hope they do a thorough tic check when they get home.

It was also an eventful day for wildlife.  On our drive to the trail, we saw the mom and 3 cubs.  They were crossing the road just south of Lewis Mountain Campground.  Had to have been the same little family we missed on Wednesday.  The bears are fast.  Again, I was not quick enough with my camera.  We both saw deer again today.  Gene says he saw 9 deer.  Gene also saw a turkey, groundhog, a couple chipmunks, a squirrel, and a raven.  As I went past Hawksbill, I watched for falcons, but didn’t see any.  In the late 1980s and early 1990s, peregrine falcons were released at Hawksbill in an effort to reintroduced these magnificent birds to the park.

I met Gene just as I arrived at the edge of Big Meadow campground.  We sat on a rock for our lunch.  Too bad I wasn’t just a couple minutes earlier, we could have had a picnic table for our lunch.

Waist high fern

The thunderstorms came as predicted shortly after one o’clock.  I was on my ascent of Hazeltop Mountain only about a mile and a half from the truck.  I stuffed the phone and camera in the dry bag and didn’t bother with the rain gear.  My chief concern was getting over the top of Hazeltop without being struck by lightning.  I hurried along as quickly as my tired legs would go.

After I picked Gene up at Skyland, we went to the Wayside at Big Meadow.  We got cokes and fries and talked with the thru-hikers who were in for burgers, beer, and blackberry shakes.  We made a quick tour of the campstore and gift shop before heading for home in the pouring down rain.

I think that about covers our hike for today.  We’ll be back at it again tomorrow.

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Hightop Mountain to Bootens Gap


This turned out to be a very nice day--a little hot--but still a nice day.  Today was an exciting day as far as hiking goes.  Gene passed the 900 mile mark from Springer Mountain in Georgia, we are now both caught up with each other, and we saw bears.


As you would expect, each 100 miles hiked is a big deal for the hiker.  That is especially true of the thru-hikers.  They count off the miles and they count off the states.  For us, every 100 miles and every state completed is something we take note of, but not worthy of a celebration.  The 900th mile of AT from Springer occurs about 1.5 miles south of Lewis Mountain Campground.  After our hike this afternoon we stopped in at the Lewis Mountain Camp Store.  There were 5 thru-hikers celebrating.  The guys were putting down massive quantities of beer and the young lady was drinking her wine right out of the bottle.  All sitting on the front porch of the store.

Break at Lewis Mountain Campground

I had hiked to Lewis Mountain in 2008, but today Gene got his turn to roll over that 900 miles.  I think he was too tired to notice.

I dropped him off this morning at Hightop Mountain parking area and he headed into the woods.  I drove north to Bootens Gap, parked the truck, and headed south on the trail.  It was a beautiful morning and there were several hikers out.  The trail was good and, in places, had recently been weed-eated.  The trail also follows Skyline Drive closely and crossed several side trails.  For the first time, I felt very comfortable hiking alone.


As I passed Lewis Mountain Campground, I stopped in for a potty break.  It is very rare to have a flush toilet so close to the trail.  About 11:30 I started looking for Gene.  I was approaching a 500 foot climb that I was not so eager to do.  I sat down and took a break.  I finally decided I better go on in case he was in trouble.  I hadn’t hiked 2 minutes from my comfortable break spot when I heard limbs breaking and a big thud.  I found the source of the noise just in time to see the back side of a black bear running away.  Normally, I would have been petrified, but he seemed to be anxious to put some distance between us so I relaxed.  I ran into Gene about a half mile away.

As we were walking back toward Lewis Mountain, we met a hiker who told us he had seen a mama bear and 3 cubs.  We were watching carefully, but didn’t see the bears.  Later, at the Camp Store the celebrating hikers said they had seen these bears.  We must have walked right by and not noticed, because those hikers were only a short distance in front of us.

On our second pass by Lewis Mountain I again went over to the restroom.  This was great.  On our next hike, I’ll be stopping at Big Meadow Campground.  I just love the Shenandoah.

We got back to the truck about 3:30 just about exhausted.  That beautiful trail I had hiked this morning had lost its appeal this afternoon.  Since we both wanted to check out the Lewis Mountain Camp Store, we drove in there on our way home.  It’s small.  They don’t have much, but a hiker could get a short-term resupply there and a shower.  The question is, why would he want to since the large store at Big Meadow is just 7 miles away.  I guess a south-bounder might resupply here.  They did have a good selection of ice cream (what I chose) and beer and wine for the celebrating hikers.

Tomorrow is a rest day, thank goodness.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Back in Waynesboro, Virginia


We had an uneventful drive from Nashville yesterday.  Traffic was reasonably light except around major cities, and even then we managed to avoid rush hours.  I think the most stressful spot was around Roanoke, Virginia.  I-81 northbound is in desperate need of repair.  The road surface condition coupled with heavier traffic, especially big tractor trailer rigs, made this a most unpleasant half hour.

Break in Simmons Gap
We were all glad to be back in our own bed last night.  I think we all, including Peanut, slept like logs.  Peanut continued with that sound sleep throughout the day today.

This morning we were eager to get back on the trail.  After 5 days without hiking, I found myself struggling to get up the first hill.  By the end of the day, however, I was all limbered up and felt remarkably well.


We picked up where we left off last week at Ivy Creek Overlook.  Again, Gene and I hiked together for about the first half of the total distance.  At the top of the unnamed mountain just north of Simmons Gap, we took another short break before I turned around to head back to the car.

Our day was foggy to start then cloudy.  On my return trip, I got rained on for about 20 minutes.  Gene only got a few sprinkles.  He got to hike over Hightop Mountain this afternoon.  Even with the cloudy weather, he reported having a few views.  Since he didn’t have the camera, I will include a photo from my hike over that mountain from 2008.

View from Hightop Mountain

The trail maintainers were out with their weed-eaters today.  It is so nice not to have an overgrown trail.  They also trimmed the low hanging branches.  Thanks a million.

Tomorrow will be another long hike from Hightop Mountain parking area on Skyline Drive where Gene stopped today to Booten’s Gap. After tomorrow’s hike, we will be halfway through the Shenandoah and past the 900 mile mark.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

A Busy Weekend


We feel like we have been on the go since the moment we arrived in Nashville.  Maybe that’s because we have been.  A weekend is just not enough time for a visit with family.

Yesterday, we spent a wonderful afternoon with Jack, Ansley, and Kayley.  Gene and I got to babysit while Jack and Ansley ran a quick errand.  That was fun.  Kayley was a little fussy for some reason, but finally got over it, took a nap, and was a sweet little angel for the rest of the afternoon and evening.

We went to dinner at a new place for Gene and I--the Black-eyed Pea in Hendersonville.  They offer a variety of good ole American cooking including burgers, steak, and chicken.  We all ordered from the traditional home cooking section of the menu.  Ansley recommended the chicken pot pie which was very good.  Gene had roast turkey and dressing and Jack chose pot roast.  All was yummy as were the fried pickles which we started with.

Today, we divided forces to conquer what seemed to be more than we could handle.  Gene went back to spend the afternoon with Jack, Ansley, and Kayley while I stayed at my parents primarily to tend to the Peanut.  Of course, I had the added benefit of a few extra hours to visit with my mom.

Peanut is a special needs cat and requires a little extra effort.  He’s deaf and gets nervous when in unfamiliar surroundings.  He has done exceptionally well this weekend after spending 11 hours in his travel crate Friday.  We’ve tried to keep him confined to the bedroom and bath, but he gets lonely, then nervous, when he can’t find Gene or I.  Since he is prone to biting and scratching, I’m uncomfortable leaving him alone with my mother who has paper thin skin.  He also has a very bad habit of pushing stuff in the floor when he thinks it’s his meal time.  There is just too much delicate, breakable stuff in this house for a pet of any sort, much less one who enjoys watching it fall.  I decided it might be best to spare myself the worry, save my mother’s skin, and protect the family heirlooms by staying with my cat.

Now, we are looking forward to dinner out with my folks before packing up the suitcase for our return trip to Virginia tomorrow.

It has been a good weekend and we have enjoyed seeing our immediate family.  It was the best we could do at this particular time, but it is just not enough time to see all those we would have liked.

Tomorrow, bright and early, we’ll head northeast.  I can tell you, we are not looking forward to that long drive.