Mt Katahdin

In 2006 we had the opportunity to hike the last 5 miles of the 2,175 miles of Appalachian Trail. I wanted to include that story to make this AT journey complete. I don’t know if I said previously, but I also am a “high pointer”. On my list of things to do is go to the highest point in each state (with the exception of McKinley). Mt. Katahdin is the highest point in Maine.

The gem of Baxter State Park in central Maine is Mt. Katahdin. We were camped several miles from the park. We had to get there early so we were up at 5 AM and in the truck by 5:30. Made a quick stop at McDonalds to pick up breakfast and ate as we made the hour drive to Katahdin Stream Campground and the trailhead. We were proud to be on the trail at 7:15 AM.

All our vigor and enthusiasm vanished when we got to treeline and the first rock to step onto was over my head. We sat down and debated what to do, finally deciding to turn back. Another hiker came along and I watched him negotiate the rock. I could do that. It was easy. All I had to do was reach up as far as I could over the top of the rock and pull myself up on my stomach until I could reach the rung with my foot. I did it.

Following the scouts up the mountain.

The next few climbs were no so bad. We went higher and higher. Then we came to a place that wasn’t as steep but it had no noticeable hand or toe holds. I tried several times but couldn’t get up. Again we sat down to debate what to do. Along came the boy scouts. Seventeen of them. They sent one man up to hold onto a tree and pull the other sixteen up. They offered to pull us up so away we went. From then on we didn’t get too far away from Troop #1. We even started counting off when they did their head counts.

Still following those white blazes.

The next big hurtle came at Hunt Ridge. After a very short flat spot the trail seemed to go straight up to heaven. This rock scramble over 0.6 mile took approximately 2 hours. We stuck close to the boy scouts. We, as well as some of them, were having trouble with the steep climb and sheer drop off on both sides. It was somehow comforting to see these boys, at an age that is generally fearless, show some caution and due respect for the mountain. The trail seemed not to exist, only blazes on the rock. We made our way the best we could with eyes on the rocks never, ever looking down the sides. Finally, we crawled up onto the Tableland, a relatively flat plateau with a view of the summit 1.5 miles away.

Achieved the summit at 2:45. After we made our pictures and rested for a half hour or so, we headed down. I thought going up was bad. It couldn’t compare with the sheer panic I felt going down. I couldn’t see the blazes on the rocks quiet so well and therefore couldn’t plot my course as easily. It was also easier to let my eyes drift to the vast emptiness to either side giving me moments of terror. I had to close my eyes and force myself to breath.

On the summit

We left the summit before the scouts, but they quickly caught up and passed us. Probably glad to be rid of two old fogies who had no business on such a climb. At least I hadn’t run into the arms of the scout master crying uncontrollably like one of the kids did. Anyway, I was afraid to crawl down backwards only feeling for a toe hold, so I sat on my butt and scooted down the rock holding on for dear life with my hands. Finally, the tree line and ground to stand on.

We emerged from the woods into the parking lot at Katahdin Stream campground with flashlights in hand at 9:00 PM. My High Points Guidebook lists Katahdin as a “Class 2, strenuous” hike by the Yosemite rating system. Only seven other state high points, including McKinley, are rated more difficult. They may not be in my future.

Bad Weather Makes a Short Trip

It was a good hike from Swift Run Gap to Lewis Mountain Campground (about 9 miles). The sun was shining, the trail was relatively easy, and there were several folks making their way to various points north. Gene hiked with me for the first three miles, which was really nice.

I got to Lewis Mountain about 12:30. I knew the drill from having been at Loft Mountain Campground last week—pick out a site, leave something there to claim it as your own, and then register. I found a site I liked with a good tree branch from which to hang my food bag, close to water and to the bathroom. I couldn’t leave without hanging the food so I set out to throw my rope up. The branch was a little high for me, but I was not to be outdone. I threw my rope once, twice, maybe a zillion times. Several times I hit the limb, about 5 times I got the rope over but the rock fell out without bringing the rope down far enough for me to reach. I threw from many different angles and even from on top of the picnic table. This was all to the amusement of the lawn mowing staff having their lunch at a table about 3 sites away. Finally, a kind hiker whom I had met earlier in the morning asked if he could help. One throw and the rope was up. Of course, he was about 2 feet taller than me and surely that must help. I wanted the rope a little farther from the tree trunk so he and I did a sort of “jump rope” swing from either end of the rope. I was walking backwards doing this maneuver, ran into the side of the picnic table and fell all the way to the ground (I’m sure much to the amusement of the lawn mowing staff still having their lunch.) No harm done and my rope was where I wanted it; I was happy.

After I registered and put up my tent it was time for my own lunch. I’m sitting there as content as could be minding my own business when a lady approaches me and asked, “have you been backpacking in this area much?” I could have boasted of my years of experience, but I chose to say simply “no”. She then proceeds to inform me “so I wouldn’t get into trouble” that my food bag is too close to the tree trunk and that the bears that sleep up there at night would get my food. She also pointed out a pole where I could hang my food for the very purpose of keeping it from the bears. None of this is good news to my ears. To my eye, the food bag was in about as good a position as it ever was and it is common knowledge that if a bear wants your food, he can probably get it no matter what. Plus, after all the effort of getting the rope up I really didn’t want to move it. And to think that those lawn mowing guys didn’t even mention to me about the food pole. Anyway, I thanked her and promised to do something about it. During the course of the afternoon, 4 park rangers came by and not one of them gave me a ticket, a citation, or otherwise indicated that my food bag was out of compliance with standard food bag hanging regulations. However, I had promised the lady that I would do something so I decided to make her really happy and put the bag on the pole. When I got the bag up I stopped by her site to ask if I had done it correctly. “Well,” she says, “to be perfectly honest, I’ve never used one before since I always have my car to store my food.” So much for the expert on food bag hanging.

This was to be a 3-day backpacking trip, the last one before leaving the area.  However, severe thunderstorms during the wee hours of the morning unnerved everyone camping at Lewis Mountain Campground. High winds and almost continuous lightning and thunder for the better part of 2 hours took its toll on my fun-filled adventure. By 6 o’clock this morning campers and hikers were out of their tents and comparing stories of their overnight experiences. One hiker had spent the night in the men’s room. Weather reports of tornado watches and flood warnings for this morning got me on the phone to Gene requesting rescue from nature’s fury.

With severe weather forecasted for the remainder of the day, I was glad to be returning to the safety of my home on wheels. Two other section hikers also wanted a ride to their car at Rockfish Gap. We were happy to accommodate. We left as some hikers decided to race on up the trail to get as far as possible before the storm let loose again. Others were discussing renting a cabin for the night. As I write this on Wednesday evening just after a very nasty storm, I am happy to be off the trail and in my own living room. The trail will be there another day.

Wildlife Sightings

The hiking was pretty special today. My new boot insoles are a hit. I had a little pain in my toes but nothing compared to the pain I was having on the balls of my feet. So I was able to march along like I knew what I was doing. The trail was not as scenic as yesterday, but those laurel were still in bloom making it a beautiful woods walk. I also ran into Pack Animal, a gentleman D-Tour and I had met just north of Daleville. It was nice to see him again. He was in high spirits as he had just spent a few zero days in Waynesboro with his family.

On our way home, the wildlife came out for a showing. First there was the turkey that walked across the road right in front of us. He was never in any danger of being hit, but I guess he thought he was, so he took flight. Turkeys are pretty awkward at flying; they do much better on the ground. About a mile further down the road another turkey was crossing to the other side. It was a mother with about 8 little chicks. They were so cute. My camera, of course, was in my pack in the back seat and I was not able to get a picture. Motoring along about 2 miles later, with sharp eyes out for turkeys, I spotted a bear. She was about to cross the road, but our big diesel engine alerted her to the danger before we got very close. She ran down the slope before I could get in range of a picture.

The bear put me in mind of another bear story which happened in this very national park 7 years ago on our last visit to Shenandoah. We were here on a vacation and doing some loop backpacking trips. We had been out for 2 or 3 days and were camped for the evening down near where the Herbert Hoover’s vacation home is located. I was feeling pretty good about our campsite. We were within park regulations many, many, many feet from any road, trial, building, or water source. But we were still close enough to “civilization” that I felt like we didn’t have to worry about bears. There was the big road that tour buses used to bring hundreds of people to see the Hoover place and there was a heavily used horse trail nearby all of which were pretty busy about the time we decided to fix dinner. Dinner that night was a pouch of chicken, Stovetop Stuffing, and gravy. About the time the smell of cornbread dressing filled the air I heard a little rustling sound. The bear came strolling along; we jumped up with whistles in mouth and beating the pans together. That bear was unimpressed. Thankfully, he passed by our encampment and strolled on down the hill. Gene, miraculously, was able to throw the rope and hang our food higher than ever before. The next morning as we were leaving to continue our hike, we discovered the game trail. It was a well worn path and the bear evidently used it daily on his walk to the stream.

Now there's a wild one for sure.

With a good hike and all that wildlife, we were feeling a little hungry. One thing about hiking, it works up a good appetite. Ice cream is always our first choice.

Trail Magic and Tractor Seats

We started this day out with breakfast at Weasie’s Kitchen. We had heard about Weasie’s so naturally we had to try it. It is a diner sort of place and very popular with the hikers. Apparently, it is popular with other folks, as well, because it was about full when we were there this morning. I really can’t say that the food was outstanding, but it was good.

What makes it so popular with the hikers is the large serving sizes. Gene ordered pancakes. There were only three pancakes, but they were huge and he could only eat about half. I ordered biscuits with sausage gravy. The gravy was good, but it was brown gravy and being from the south, that just ain’t right. The prices were very reasonable, also. With a big breakfast in our tummies we were off for our hike.

Towers atop Bear Den Mountain

The hike was very nice and a great morale booster. I hiked north from McCormick Gap up and over Bear Den Mountain. I’m glad I hadn’t noticed the name before the hike. It turns out to be a just about perfect name. There were two things on top of that mountain—an array of 6 communication towers and a huge expanse of blackberry bushes. As I passed by all those blackberry bushes in full bloom this fine day, I said to myself that this will probably be bear heaven in a few weeks.

Odd seeing tractor seats on the trial.

At the last set of towers, I found a curious thing. There was a semicircle of tractor seats seemingly waiting for someone to come along to rest a spell. I could not even imagine a reason for them being there and certainly not for them to be arranged in a semicircle. Strange, indeed.

What a precious gift for thirsty thru-hikers.

After coming down the other side of Bear Den Mountain to Beagle Gap I found trail magic in the form of bottled water. This section of trail goes for several miles from Rockfish Gap to Calf Mountain Shelter without water. I’m sure the thru-hikers passing through Beagle Gap today will be grateful for the trail angel who was so thoughtful.

I met Gene just before Jarmen Gap. After a short break, we pressed on northward. The two climbs over Bear Den and Calf Mountains were the worst of the day so the rest of the hike was pretty pleasant. It was uphill mostly, but not too steep and the mountain laurel was in bloom everywhere. It was like a laurel tunnel almost. Just spectacular.

Our hike ended at Turk Gap. I spread out my poncho on the ground for us to sit on for lunch. I didn’t even have my sandwich out of the bag before I spotted a tick, then another one. I really don’t like ticks so I had my lunch in the truck.

The balls of my feet are still hurting after about an hour of walking. I decided new insoles would help. On our way home I stopped at the outfitters for those. I am anxious to see if this will help on tomorrow’s hike.

Getting Weary; Ready For A Change

I have been in the “mulligrubs” today. I guess the tiredness is catching up. All I’ve wanted to do today is sit. I did manage to get the laundry done and the ironing. I got my food in order for my next backpacking trip. Also cut Gene’s hair this afternoon. But everything has seemed so hard to do and I just don’t seem to have the energy for it.

I have outlined six more days of hiking for the time we have left here—three day hikes and a 3-day backpacking trip. That will give me 160 miles of new trail for this section. I’m happy with that.

I am struggling to keep my goal in focus. In all my years of hiking, I have seldom gone alone. I have never gone backpacking alone, and I will have to say I don’t much like it. I have not been afraid, although I was a bit nervous when I saw so many signs of bear. I think what really bothers me is the loneliness. It is becoming increasingly more difficult to go out each morning. Thankfully, tomorrow and Sunday Gene will be able to go with me. Rather, I should say, he will be out there on the trail. He will drop me off at my starting point and take the truck to the end point then hike toward me. When we meet somewhere in the middle, he will retrace his steps so I will have a companion for the last half of my hike.

I do not live by hiking. There are other things I enjoy doing. I am beginning to miss trying new recipes and cooking. I took several photography classes at Life on Wheels and I am anxious to practice. There are several attractions in this area I would like to visit. I also enjoy bicycling and haven’t been riding since February. I guess all these things are playing on my mind today and have gotten my spirits down.

I guess you are probably pretty tired of hearing me whine. Perhaps I’ll just go get my pack ready for tomorrows hike.

In the words of my good friend, Herb—“keep moving forward”. Good advice.

A One Night Backpacking Trip

It was a short little trip, but the views were outstanding, the trail was good, and Loft Mountain Campground has hot water.

Black Rock Mountain

I started Wednesday morning in a slight mist from Blackrock Gap. I was a little apprehensive since this was my first time to backpack alone. I feel more comfortable here than most places because the trail sticks pretty close to the road. If I had trouble, it would only be a short walk to the road and we have discovered in the past couple weeks that we usually have a cell signal most places along Skyline Drive. All that is very comforting, but to walk away from my husband in the early morning was a bit disconcerting.

Clouds over the valley

But the trail soon took my mind off that as it went right up to the summit of Blackrock Mountain. It was a big pile of rock on the summit and looked like a rock slide going down the side of the mountain. I don’t think there is anything else like it in this area.

Mountain Laurel

My destination for the day was Loft Mountain Campground. I found a site and set up house for the night. I got there early in the afternoon—plenty of time to take a little nap. I was very impressed with the Campground. There were about 200 sites and, as is often typical of national park campgrounds, the sites were huge. I found a site near both the restroom and the trail.

Skyline Drive below the AT

The restroom was special—it had hot water. Most national parks don’t so this was a real treat. I had planned on burning off most of my stove fuel by heating water for a bath.

View from Loft Mountain

I’ll have to say I was lonely by myself. I read every word on my map (more than once) and did every sudoku puzzle I had. I was surprised to see Jack rabbits, but they were very entertaining. I was also surprised not to see deer. I was relieved not to see a bear (and also grateful).

Ivy Creek

Thursday, I was up early and getting ready to go. Gene was picking me up at Simmons Gap at 2 PM. It was just 9 miles away, but over several climbs. I wanted to have plenty of time. It was a glorious sunny morning and the views were fantastic.

After getting away from the campground area the trail stayed in the forest away from the road for several miles. I got nervous when I saw so much bear scat and then started to see overturned rocks. Bear signs for sure. I was forced to sing the 99 bears on a wall song to protect myself. Surely no self-respecting bear would get close to that noise.

I was early to Simmons Gap, but it gave me a chance to get started resting. It was a good hike. The trail was well groomed most of the way with no big rocks to climb over, the mountain laurel was just starting to bloom, and the birds were singing. Who could ask for more?

My ride!!

Follow the White Blaze

Having reached Rockfish Gap on our hike Monday, I have completed right at 100 miles of AT in the past 2 weeks. D-Tour and I did about 70 miles, I have done 2 day hikes in Shenandoah National Park and 20 miles between VA 664 and Rockfish Gap. Now I am concentrating on the 100 miles in Shenandoah. Tomorrow morning Gene will take me up to Skyline Drive for a 1 night backpacking hike. I am following that white blaze and connecting point to point.

Speaking of white blazes, that is how we hikers know where to go. The 2100+ miles of the AT are blazed every few feet with a roughly 2 x 6 inch white blaze. It is like reading street signs and traffic directions. A single white blaze marks the trail. A double white blaze indicates a place where the hiker should be cautious to stay on the trail, usually because of a turn. Sometimes the top blaze of a double blaze may be slightly to the right or left of the lower blaze. This indicates the direction of the turn. Blue blazed trails lead to shelters, water sources, or points of interest.

To help you know exactly where you are along the trail, there are maps and guidebooks. The most popular books are the Thru-Hiker’s Companion, Appalachian Trail Data Book, and the Appalachian Trail Guide Books. The Thru-Hiker’s Companion and Data Book are all inclusive in one small book giving the hiker the bear essential information about the location of shelters, water, roads, groceries, lodging, campgrounds, and towns. The Guide Books are many—one guide book for about every 100-200 miles of trail. These books are much more comprehensive than the other two and include some local history, descriptions of side trails, and more details of the AT. I use the Guide Books most often. The maps include a trail profile. Although I spend a great deal of time looking at the profile, practically memorizing how many up hills there are, when I’m actually hiking it seems to be all up hill. The maps are waterproof and now are GPS compatible.

Sometimes that white blaze goes where I'd rather not go.

Today I took a zero day. I stayed home and did chores—laundry, grocery, vacuuming, etc. I fixed a couple things for Gene to have to eat while I’m gone, including a pineapple upside down cake. I can’t remember the last one of those I had. I have enjoyed the day. I really am a home-body. I like to just piddle around the house. It has been fun and a nice break from hiking. But the white blaze is calling my name and I’ve got to get back out there.