Cullman, Alabama

Col. Cullman, founder

After making long drives to trailheads two days in a row, we wanted to stay closer to home today.  Several things around the home front were needing attention.  The chores weren’t going to take all day, so we decided to walk about beautiful, downtown Cullman, Alabama.

To our surprise there was a volksmarch in Cullman.  In the past, we have always tried to do a volksmarch or some other walking tour of all the towns we visit.  We’ve kinda gotten out of that habit, so it was nice to do that for a change.

American Volkssport Association (AVA) is a fitness oriented club with an emphasis on walking.  They have walking events all over the country.  We’re not members of the club, but all events are open to the public.  There are two types of events--the traditional events and the year-round events.  The traditional events are more like a club outing and is more “organized” than the year-round events.  We rarely participate in a traditional event.  The year-round events are more like a self-guided tour.  You go whenever you want to.  The local club chapter is responsible for having materials available for walkers.  These materials, usually a map, route information, and a brief description of what you might see, are in the “walk box” located at the start point.  Since people drive to the start point, then walk the route, the start point is usually at a business where there is plenty of parking and the business is open seven days a week.  Most often, the walk boxes are located at a hotel.  For our walk today, the walk box was at a grocery store, but that’s a little unusual.  Walkers ask for the box, take out the map and directions, sign the log, and off they go.  There is no charge for the materials.  Walks are 10K in length and often have a 5K option.  We did the 5K option today.

Sitting in Santa's chair at a small city park

We have enjoyed many AVA walks, we’ve also been disappointed in many.  A lot depends on the town.  Often the walks are in the downtown areas.  That’s to take advantage of the cities historical points of interest.  All capitol cities have volksmarches and all go right past (or right through) the capitol building.  Downtown areas are also where the sidewalks are and crossing signals at major intersections.  We all know that many downtown areas are somewhat unsavory and not a place we’d choose to walk.  This is the biggest drawback for us.  We read the description on the internet and look at the map carefully before we do a walk.  If we get into a place where we don’t feel comfortable, we just turn around and retrace our steps.  So, enough about the AVA; on to our walk today.

L & N Train Depot

Our start point today was at the old L and N (Louisville and Nashville) depot.  It may have been the most interesting building on our route today.  It’s a Mission style building constructed in 1913.  Today it is used by United Way and was locked on this Sunday morning.  Gene peeked in the windows, though, and the wooden floors and ticket windows are still there.

Replica of Col Cullman's home, now the County Museum

This wasn't listed on the description, but we thought it an interesting old structure.

The route took us past City Hall and other government buildings for Cullman County, past the old downtown churches, and the historic residential section.  The government buildings have been repaired, the old churches and the brick homes seemed to have faired fairly well, but the rest of the area was hard hit by a tornado last April.  Storm damage was evident everywhere and one block seemed to have been completely wiped out.  It was sad to see.  I was reminded of the recent post by Mary of The Great RV Escape and her moving story of the destruction and devastation of the tornado that hit Joplin, Missouri last spring.

Sacred Heart Catholic Church

Sacred Heart at a slightly different angle, and fewer traffic lights.

St John's Evangelical Protestant Church

Built in 1887, this was the home of Joel Brown, Alabama Supreme Court Justice

We completed our 3-mile walk which brought us back to the car at the old train depot and were home in time for lunch.  This is a good way to get a little exercise and we often learn something in the process.  It was a nice outing and just what we needed for today.

Evidence of tornado damage

Look what we found--a muffler man.

If the rain will hold off until Monday evening, we’ll probably do another hike tomorrow.

That’s it from me for today.  Thanks for tagging along.

Fredericksburg, Texas

Today we headed north about 40 miles into the heart of the Texas Hill Country and the town of Fredericksburg (named after Prince Frederick of Prussia).  Fredericksburg, as well as other communities in the area, was established by German immigrants in the mid-1840s.  The German influence is very prominent all over town; all over the Hill Country for that matter.

Old St Mary's Church

We decided to do the Volkswalk on this visit.  The walk box was located at the Quality Inn.  The AVA Club in this community has several walks here.  We chose the Pilgrimage Walk through the historic downtown district.  The walk began at the Quality Inn which was a good place to leave the truck, however, the City Visitor Center downtown had a large free parking lot which would have been just fine.  They also have a walking tour which included all the same sites that were on the Volkswalk.

Old County Jail

One of the most interesting things along the tour were the “Sunday Houses”.  These were small, one-room houses built by German farmers for use when they brought their goods to market in town.  The journey to market from their homes and then back again was too far to be done in one day.  These dwellings typically consisted of one room plus a loft which was accessed by a ladder or stairs from the outside and a lean-to kitchen.  The farmers made their trip into town on Saturday, did their trading, went to church on Sunday morning and then returned home in the afternoon.  There are three or four remaining—one in the pioneer museum complex and the others privately owned.

A Sunday House

Another Sunday House

In the Marktplatz is the Vereins Kirche (translated “community church”), an 8-sided structure which is the centerpiece of this small park.  This Vereins Kirche is a reproduction of the original which was the first public building in the settlement and stood near the center of town.  It was a multipurpose building serving as a school, a church, a town hall, and a fort to protect the townspeople from the Indians.  Also located in the park was a tall pole with various characters depicting community life.  I don’t know what the purpose of this poll is (or was).  I’m wondering if it might be a May pole.

Vereins Kirche

It had been recommended to us to go inside St. Mary’s Catholic Church.  We went in both the old (built in 1863) and the new (built in 1908) buildings.  The new St. Mary’s is a “painted church” and is beautiful inside.  The sanctuary was far to large and too dark for my little flash to do it justice.  In the picture I took you can’t even see the fabulous detailed stenciling.

Main Street is lined on either side by boutiques, antiques, and restaurants.

To round out our German experience for today, we had a late lunch at Der Lindenbaum Restaurant.  Two restaurants had been recommended to us, however, the lady at the Visitor Center (who was obviously German herself) said Lindenbaum had the most authentic German food.  Truly, it was very good.

 A May pole, maybe?

We didn’t spend as much time in Fredericksburg as we would have liked, so I expect there will be a return trip before we leave the area.

The 6-mile walk, a healthy dose of history, a great lunch of bratwurst, German potato salad and sauerkraut, all made for a couple tired travelers this afternoon.  Translated that means:  sandwiches for supper and don’t ask me to get off the couch.

Walking in Houston

What a difference a day can make.  Yesterday was a beautiful, sunny day with temps in the 70s.  This morning we woke up to a temperature of about 57 and it has been falling ever since.  We put on coats and made the 75 mile drive to Houston anyway.

Getting registered at Hickory Hollow BBQ

Today was a walking event hosted by the AVA Club—Houston Happy Hikers.  There are basically two types of events sponsored by AVA.  The most common is the Year Round Event which anyone can do at any time.  You get a map and walking directions at the start point (listed on the internet at the AVA site by city) and do your own thing.  The other type events are done as a group and listed as One Day Events.  Our walk today was this type and the designated start place was Hickory Hollow Restaurant.  We did the 12K walk, although there was a 5K option.  Basically, we walked around Houston’s version of New York’s Central Park.   There is a large green expanse near the downtown area along both sides of the Buffalo Bayou with a paved trail for walkers, joggers, and bicyclists.  Along the bayou we saw some fishing going on and an egret (I guess he was fishing, too).  There were joggers aplenty and families on bicycles. Our walk passed a Frisbee golf course and skate park. The city apartment and condo dwellers were out with their dogs in the dog play park.  And after almost 7 miles, don’t you know that Texas BBQ at Hickory Hollow tasted mighty fine.  BBQ is on my priority list for this trip and this was my first.  I was not disappointed.

Even though it was overcast and the temps were only in the mid 50s, it turned out to be a great day for a walk.  I had thought we would be walking through the old market area, but I was mistaken.  We may or may not get back down there for the history stuff.  Houston is a big city—the fourth largest in the nation, so we don’t want to go during the week when the traffic would be just too special.

Yard art on one of the condos we passed

My first Texas BBQ

Tomorrow I have to stay home and get a few things done around the house.  I really can’t do any more sightseeing until I do a few loads of laundry.  We are also having an issue with the black tank flushing system which Gene is trying to get resolved.  There is a fresh water inlet from the outside of the trailer which distributes water to a number of jets inside the holding tank. After the tank has been emptied he turns this flushing system on to rinse out the tank thoroughly.  There is a problem with this system that will not allow fresh water in.  His best guess is that the check valve is either broken or stuck in the closed position.  Gene will occupy his time tomorrow with that little problem.

Historic Mobile, Alabama

This was a cold, cloudy, and very windy day, but we decided to drive to Mobile anyway for a walking tour of the historic district.  Our walk began at the Fort Condé Museum and Visitor Center.  Originally, Fort Condé was a French fort that was under the control of the British when the Spanish defeated them during the American Revolution.  Today, the replica of the fort houses the Visitor Center, a small gift shop and a Revolutionary War Museum.

Fort Conde

As we wandered the streets of historic Mobile we were impressed with the wrought iron balconies very reminiscent of what you would see in New Orleans.  And like New Orleans, these folks are all about Mardi Gras.  I understand that the celebration in Mobile is much more family oriented than the one in New Orleans.  Our walk included the Old Church Street Cemetery which was established in 1819 for the victims of yellow fever.  Gene made a very quick trip through the Police Museum.  And to round out our experience for today, a marathon was being run in Mobile today and our walk went along part of the route including the finish line.  

The walk was about 3 miles long and by the time we got back to the truck we were more than ready to get out of the cold wind.  It was not a day for a picnic in the park so we spread our lunch on the dashboard.

Barton Academy, first public school in Alabama

In the spirit of Mardi Gras

On our way home we stopped at Bass Pro.  Gene found himself a pair of tennis shoes, but he was most impressed with the number (it seemed like thousands) of fishing rods on display.  The camping section, on the other hand, was very small.  I guess that’s just the difference in location.  It’s just to hot, humid, and buggy here to enjoy a real camping experience.  There is, however, lots of water to cast a line into.  The most interesting thing I saw was the camouflage crock pot.  The bear (or the enemy) could smell the food, but he wouldn’t be able to see it.

We were home by mid-afternoon and are looking forward to a dinner of leftovers from yesterday’s Lambert’s lunch and a relaxing evening.

Harrisonburg, Virginia

Virginia Farmland

We opted to do a little sightseeing today rather than hitting a woods trail. Our destination was Harrisonburg, VA, located about 25 miles north of Staunton off I-81. One of our great pleasures when traveling around our great country is to get off the interstate highways and take to the back roads. This part of Virginia is farmland and absolutely beautiful.

Courthouse

Harrisonburg was settled in 1780. It is the county seat of Rockingham County and the home of James Madison University. The railroad runs through the community and it saw a couple battles during the Civil War. The American Volkssport Association offers a self-guided walking tour of the downtown area and James Madison University. We started our walk at the Visitor Center downtown.

The Spring on the square

The courthouse is located in the center of the town square and, like most courthouses, is not the original. Also located on the square at the corner of the courthouse, is the “community spring”. This was a real drawing point for residents as well as travelers in the 1800s. It appears water is still flowing from the spring.

Homes along the walk

One of the things we enjoy about walking tours of cities (old or new) is seeing the different styles of architecture, both in commercial buildings as well as homes. In Harrisonburg, like every other city, some structures are better maintained than others. I think it is fun to see what people have done with there homes—how they have landscaped the yards, furnished the porches, and their selection of paint and color schemes. Our walk today also took us through the old cemetery in town. This one was not particularly special like some we have seen.

James Madison University

The main feature of the town today is James Madison University. JMU began its life in 1908 as the State Normal and Industrial School for Women, in 1924 became the State Teachers College, in 1938 Madison College, and finally in 1977 James Madison University. Men were allowed admittance in 1946. The campus is pretty spread out with the original buildings on one side of the interstate and the newer portion on the other. Access is via Duke Dog Alley—a tunnel which passes underneath I-81.

There always someone so  special they don't have to follow the rules.

Also included in the walking tour was the Edith J. Carrier Arboretum. It was a great place for a rest by the pond. It was toward the end of the tour when we were tired and ready to get back to the car, lunch, and something ice cold to drink. However, it was a beautiful area and I wish I had had the energy and time to explore it more closely.

Pond at Carrier Arboretum

We will now turn our attention to getting ready to leave Virginia and head toward New York.

Other Stuff To Do In Nashville

There are many things to see and do in Nashville. I have run out of time, and have only glimpsed a few of “tourist attractions”. I feel compelled to at least mention a few of the other things you might be interested in when you visit the city.

Chaffin's Barn Dinner Theater

As I mentioned before, this is the capital of Tennessee and the Capitol Building is open for touring. The American Volkssport Association has a walk which includes the area around the capitol building.

Christ's Church Episcopal Cathedral

Tennessee Performing Arts Center has a full schedule of performances, some of which are major productions. One of the most memorable things I have ever done was see Yul Brenner in The King of Siam performed at TPAC. The Nashville Symphony also performs regularly at Schermerhorn Symphony Center. For a more casual live performance, check out what’s playing at Chaffin’s Barn Dinner Theater.

Sommet Center where the Preds play

For all you sports fans, Nashville has three professional teams. For the football fans there are the Tennessee Titans, for baseball fans we have the minor league team--the Nashville Sounds, and for hockey fans there are the Nashville Predators.

Union Station

For history buffs, there are countless historical sites in Nashville and the surrounding area. A fair number of Civil War battles were fought in the area. The battle of Nashville is well documented with historical markers. There are regular re-enactments at Stones River National Battlefield in Murfreesboro, as well as in the communities of Springhill and Franklin, TN. The Heritage, home Andrew Jackson, the 7th president of the United States is located on the outskirts of town.

Customs House

For state history, the Tennessee State Museum is located in downtown. It is a nice facility, but a state museum never the less. What can I say? I call these places “state attics”—a place to put all that stuff you don’t use anymore. However, our state museum does have an area for traveling exhibits and has had some very interesting shows. One of my favorites was the Anne Frank Exhibit.

For visual arts Nashville has Frist Center of the Visual Arts as well as Cheekwood Botanical Gardens.

The train station has been renovated and is now a Grand Hotel. The old Customs House on Broadway is still occupied by federal judges and a courtroom just as it was in 1882. There are many churches located in the downtown area. Christ’s Church Episcopal Cathedral built in 1894 is a great example of Victorian Gothic architecture.

Bat Building

Just driving along the streets, particularly in the downtown area, offers the visitor plenty to see. If you look carefully you may see a catfish, a guitar, or even a horse. And don’t forget to look up. Perhaps the most distinctive building on the Nashville Skyline is the Bell South tower, lovingly referred to as the “bat building”.

Knoxville, Tennessee

The Knoxville area has an abundance of attractions for every traveler. This is sort of like a second home for us and we have spent quite a lot of time here. We are only passing through this time, but there are a couple things I wanted to share just in case you find yourself here in the future.

Rachmaninoff statue in World's Fair Park

Knoxville is a large city, the third largest in Tennessee. Being that size it offers many attractions and services—almost everything from museums to a zoo. The World’s Fair was held here in 1983, drawing visitors from around the world. Today, the area where the fair was held has become a very nice city park. Do I need to mention that this is the home of the University of Tennessee. This is “Big Orange” country and in the fall that is about the only color to be seen around here. One good way to see the city is by doing the Volksmarch which begins at the James White Fort, meanders through the historic downtown area, World’s Fair Park, across the UT campus, and back along the Tennessee River.

There are also fabulous attractions nearby. Although we haven’t been, the Museum of Science and Energy in Oak Ridge is highly acclaimed as well as The Museum of Appalachia in Norris. Knoxville is just a short drive from the gateway communities for the Great Smoky Mountains National Park—Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge and Townsend. Shopping abounds in Pigeon Forge with its numerous outlet stores. Gatlinburg has a more tourist feel with its craft stores, T-shirt shops, and fudge factory. If crowds aren’t your thing, then Townsend might be a better choice for a place to stay for a visit to the National Park.

Cade's Cove Missionary Baptist Church

The National Park has usually been our destination when coming to the area. Other folks seem to like it, too, as it is the most visited National Park in the country. Fall is a very popular time to come and leaf peepers are out in full force. One of the most popular places in the Park is Cades Cove located 7 miles from the Townsend entrance. This was a thriving pioneer community in the 1850s with a population of nearly 700. Today, the Park Service maintains several pioneer cabins, a water-powered grist mill, churches and cemeteries. Many visitors come for the wildlife. It is a rare visit to the cove that you wouldn’t see white tailed deer and wild turkey and some say this is the best place in the park to see a black bear. The 11 mile paved Loop road allows visitors to enjoy the cove from the comfort of their car. However, for the more adventuresome, bicycling is a fantastic way to get a little exercise while exploring the history of this early East Tennessee community. During summer months the Loop road is closed on Wednesday and Saturday mornings to motorized traffic, making a bicycle tour more pleasant. Guided horseback riding tours are also available from April through October. If you want your feet on the ground, there are several hiking trails in the Cove. One of the more popular is a relatively easy 2 ½ mile hike to Abrams Falls.

More on the Great Smoky Mountains National Park tomorrow.

Volksmarching

This term was unfamiliar to me until a few years ago when Gene introduced me to my first Volkssport event. We did the Clarksville, TN walk and I was very impressed. We enjoy hiking, but we also enjoy strolling around towns and these walks are ideal for exploring the cities we visit along our journey. With printed step-by-step directions and photo copied maps of the area, the walker is directed through the most interesting areas of a town—historic old towns and residential neighborhoods, downtown shopping districts, and/or picturesque views.

Walks are 10K, a little over 6 miles, and often have a 5 K option. This length allows for lots of exploration and the slow pace of walking as opposed to riding or driving, allows you time to truly investigate those things which are of particular interest. For us, the walks generally take the better part of a day. We always take snacks and water and then let happen what happens. We stop often to make photographs, to rest at a park along the way, to examine architecture. Downtown walks often pass coffee houses, restaurants, and shops which deserve special attention.

The American Volkssport Association (AVA) is the sponsor of these walks. Their goal is to promote healthful living through exercise, primarily walking, but also includes biking, hiking, and swimming. They have some 350 walking clubs scattered throughout the country with thousands of walking routes to enjoy. Check out their website, www.ava.org, for more information on the AVA as well as events where you are.

Spartanburg, South Carolina

Our first stop in South Carolina was Spartanburg. I am moderately into my family genealogy and wanted to scout out a couple old cemeteries. My family settled for a short while in Spartanburg County as they migrated from Virginia and North Carolina to Tennessee. I still have an uncle, aunt, and several cousins living in the area.

I got with my uncle and found one of the two cemeteries I was interested in. This tombstone is in the old family cemetery located on land that was once my great-great-great uncle’s plantation. It was pretty incredible to stand on land that had belonged to a distant relative in the 1700s. We were unable to locate the other cemetery. My research indicates that some of my ancestors were active in the Padgett Creek Baptist Church so I wondered if they might be buried in the church cemetery. We did find the church building, however, it had been relocated several times from its original site. It was too cold and too late in the day for us to search any longer. I’ll put that on my list for our next visit.

At the very northern edge of the state, just a stones throw from North Carolina, is the highest point in South Carolina, Mt. Sassafras. I’m a “high pointer”—just some nut who has the desire to go to the highest point in all the states. This one was easy. It was a drive up except for the last three tenths of a mile. But as high points go it was pretty lame. The USGS marker was a survey marker and didn’t even have the elevation on it. There was a metal box for the summit register, but the register was missing. Eaten by squirrels, most likely. There was a hand full of shredded paper in the bottom of the box. Oh well, they can’t all be great, I guess.

Near Spartanburg is the city of Greenville. We went there to do their volksmarch. It was fantastic with paved greenway along the Reedy River for almost the entire 10 K walk. The walk started and ended on Main Street which gave us an opportunity to search for the life-size bronze mice hiding along the sidewalk. Some cities have cows, Nashville has catfish and guitars, Anchorage has salmon, and Greenville has mice. What fun!