Hiking, Biking, and Shopping

The day started out with a triathlon, but that’s not the highlight of the day.  The best part of the day was our dinner with our hiking buddies, so I’ll start with that.

Herb, Dwight, and Geoff traversed the Presidential Range and returned to Pinkham Notch to tell the tale.  After we dropped the boys off at Crowford Notch last Wednesday, they made the slow, difficult climb to Mizpah Springs Hut.  They apparently arrived at the hut just minutes after we left.  Sorry we missed them.

Tired, but happy.

The next 2 days, they were on the ridge above timberline as they made their way first to Lake of the Clouds Hut then to Madison Hut going over or skirting several of the highest peaks in the range.  They report a difficult walk across the ridge, not so much for the elevation gain, but for the rocks.  They had good weather, but were in and out of the clouds (fog) as they went over Mt Washington.  Yesterday, they left Madison Hut and, first, made the very difficult climb over Mt Madison, then down to Pinkham Notch.  We had heard from other hikers that is was a very hard section of trail and our friends confirmed it to be the most difficult hike they had ever done.

We arrived at Pinkham Notch after they had had showers and a few minutes of rest.  There were a few limps in their steps, a little sunburn on their faces, and a few sore knees, but they looked great and were in good spirits.  The spirits were somewhat lifted after a cold beer, but the pain remained.  Geoff was only doing this section, so we said our goodbyes and he went on his way as we went into dinner.

We had dinner at the small AMC cafe at Pinkham Notch.  It is very similar to the dinners served at the AMC huts.  It’s a hearty meal for hungry hikers served family style at long picnic tables.  We had garden salad, a very good pineapple, mango, and peach cold soup, chicken cordon blue, green beans with pearl onions, baked potatoes, home baked bread, and spice cake.  No one left the table hungry.  The conversation mainly centered on the difficulty of the trail and the pros and cons of staying in the huts.

After collecting a few extra items from their spare gear bags which we are holding for them, we sent them off to bed.  They’ll need plenty of rest for the hard climb up Wildcat Mountain to Carter Notch today.

As for the other part of our day, we started out by walking around the campground. When we got to the office, the owner was out encouraging everyone to form a cheering squad for the Wildman Triathlon.  This is the 21st year for this annual event which raises funds for the local Senior Center.  The race started with a 10-mile run down North Road from Shelburne.  The participants then mounted their bicycles for the 15-mile ride to Wildcat Ski Resort.  This was the portion that passed right by our campground.  The owners lined up chairs at the edge of the drive and several of us campers watched and cheered as the racers passed by.  After they reached Wildcat Ski Resort, the participants then hiked up the mountain.  I hope they got to ride the gondola down.

After lunch, we headed over to Conway for a little shopping.  Conway is a real touristy town and it reminded us a lot of Gatlinburg, a gateway community to the Smokies.  A few miles away from the downtown area is an outlet mall.  A mile or so beyond that is an LL Bean Outlet store and an Eastern Mountain Sports retail store.  Next door to EMS was a Starbucks.  This was not a bad place to while away the afternoon.

Gene found the long-sleeved shirt he has been looking for at LL Bean.  It was marked down half price, plus he had two $10 coupons.  He got the shirt for five bucks.  Now, he’s a happy camper.  At the EMS store, I got him a Tilley hat for his upcoming birthday.  He’s wanted a Tilley for years.  It was marked down twenty percent, so I got a good deal.  (I should have offered to buy the shirt.)  Since it’s his birthday present, he’ll have to wait a couple weeks until it is officially his.  At the outlet mall we stopped in the Carter store and found an outfit for our granddaughter’s birthday.  On sale, of course, so another good deal.

Today, we have a couple things to do for Herb and Dwight to prepare for their next visit.  They’ll be on the trail for two days then come to the US 2 crossing on Tuesday.  Gene’s working on the iodine mess right now.  We also have a grocery run to do.  We want to try to work in a walk, as well.

So, I better get busy.

Presidential Rail Trail

For something different, we decided to walk on the greenway today.  Portions of this walking/bicycling path are clearly visible from the highway and every time we drive by we say we need to get out there.

One of our holdups was the fact that we couldn’t get any information about parking, length, etc.  Even the lady at the Information Center in Gorham seemed like she didn’t know what we were talking about.  When we finally made her understand, she still was unable to find a map of the trail.  So today, we just decided to go find out for ourselves.

We parked at a large parking area on US 2.  We knew the path went west at least to the Appalachia parking area because we’ve walked across the greenway as we headed out to all the trails which leave from there.  We also thought it went east on into downtown Gorham because we had seen people walking across an old railroad bridge.  At the parking lot on US 2 there was a map posted on a board, but the map was labeled “Presidential Snowmobile Club” and had many different trails going in all directions.  We were more confused by the map.  We dashed across busy US 2 and around the gate to the greenway.  We were on a mission.

As we started out, we were greatly impressed with the trail surface of crushed stone and a very expensive bridge over Moose River.  We were zipping along and all of a sudden we were passing houses and found ourselves back at US 2 again.  We were standing around with confused looks on our faces when a father with his three children came along on bicycles.  He was no help, however; he was as confused as we were.  We said something about the greenway and the guy seemed like he was confused by our question.  They turned around and so did we and headed back to the truck.

Our next step was to drive up to the Appalachia parking area and walk toward Gorham.  Soon after we got started there, we ran into a gentleman on a bicycle.  He looked like he knew what he was doing, so we asked him where the trail went.  He explained where it ended which was about two-tenths of a mile west of where we had originally parked.  When we tried to explain to him that we had gotten on the greenway at the large parking lot in town, he, too, acted like he didn’t know what we were talking about.

We finally came across a sign which identified the path we were on as a “Rail Trail”.  We have rail trail conversions in Tennessee, but they are always referred to as “Greenways”.  We kept saying, “greenway” and no one knew what we were talking about.  We’ve been frustrated with folks around here for two weeks and it’s been our fault all along.  And you thought English was the universal language.

Moose River

We enjoyed our walk.  The trail was wide, flat, and free of rocks, roots, and ruts.  There were bridges over every creek (I think they’re called brooks here) and over the river.  We passed a couple ponds which was neat, even though there were no moose.  Because the path is wide, we were out in the sun more.  Having more sun meant a few flowers rather than moss and fungi which we see on the shaded trails.  It was a nice change of pace.

beaver lodge

Our hiking buddies are continuing their trek across the Presidentials.  Today, they were on the ridge above timberline all day and passed over Mt Washington and skirted around the edge of Mt Clay, Mt Jefferson, and Mt Adams.  They are at Madison Hut tonight.  We plan to meet them for dinner tomorrow evening after they climb over the top of Mt Madison then make their way down the rocks to Pinkham Notch.  We’re anxious to hear their stories.

I think that about does it for today.

Androscoggin River

Well, this has certainly been a lazy day.  We had very fine weather and it would have been a great day to hike, but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.  This morning, sitting in the recliner, sipping coffee won the battle.  The day wasn’t a total lose; we did get a few things done--some of which needed to be done.

We don’t expect to hear from our hiking friends.  I’m sure they enjoyed their night at Mizpah hut and today was just about perfect for going over Mt Pierce, Mt Eisenhower, and Mt Monroe.  I hope they got to Lake of the Clouds Hut before the clouds moved in.  That is such a spectacular view from up there.

This evening after dinner, we drove back toward Gorham just a couple miles to a pull off on the side of US 2 which is on the bank of the Androscoggin River.  I was hoping for some good sunset photos.  I look with envy at the fabulous sunset pictures posted on some of the blogs I follow.  It seems like our campgrounds are never in prime spots for sunsets.  At this one, for example, we are so shrouded in trees that we can barely see the sky at all.  So this evening we went for a more open space.  The best shots were taken just before the sun went behind the mountain.  After that, the clouds were so heavy and dark, the colors couldn’t shine through.  Oh well, there’s always another night.

We’re uncertain of our plan for tomorrow.  Just have to see what the day brings.

Crawford Path to Mizpah Hut

Well, our friends arrived late last night from Nashville and stayed at Joe Dodge Lodge at Pinkham Notch.  We were up and out early this morning to have breakfast with them.  It’s always good to see friends.

Because we were out so early, we saw wildlife.  We got our first moose sighting since arriving in “moose country”.  It wasn’t the classic bull moose with the big antlers standing in a pond, but rather a mom and calf grazing by the highway.  By the time we got pulled over onto the shoulder and I got my camera out, they had wandered back into the woods.  Oh well, at least we finally saw moose.

There was a red fox in the parking lot as we pulled into the AMC complex at Pinkham Notch.  I’ve been trying for years to get a picture of a red fox.  They’re always too fast for me.  Once they hear our rumbling diesel engine, they’re gone.  This little fellow seemed quit content to be wandering among the parked cars.

First order of business was breakfast.  There is a small cafeteria at the Visitor Center which serves an all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast.  It’s just what the hunger hikers want.  We loaded up on bacon, eggs, home fries, pancakes, yogurt, fruit, and granola.  Then, we crowned this massive pile of food with homemade cranberry/orange scones.  Cup after cup of java helped to wash it all down.

We finally had to drag ourselves away from the table and the conversation in order to get moving toward the trial.  Herb, Dwight, and Geoff were starting just south of Crawford Notch where the AT crosses route 302.  It was about a 30 minute drive from Pinkham Notch to Crawford Notch.

We loaded all the packs and their other gear in the truck.  They’re staying at three of the AMC huts as they hike across the presidential range.  Because they’re staying at the huts which provide dinner, breakfast, and a bed to sleep in, they are not carrying as much gear as they will after this initial section.  We are holding this additional gear until next Saturday when they come down from Madison Hut to Pinkham Notch.  Five people, five packs, and two large duffle bags just about filled up the truck.  It was a cozy ride to Crawford Notch.

We put those boys out at the trail and watched with a little envy as they crossed the road and headed up the mountain.

Visitor Center in an old train depot

Before we could get out of the small parking lot at the trail, two other thru-hikers came out of the woods.  Whenever we see hikers on the road we ask if they need a ride, so I rolled down the window and ask.  They didn’t need a ride; they were heading on up the trail, however, they sure could use a cold drink.  I dug in the cooler for the two ice cold colas which we always take for our after hike treat and handed them over.  This afternoon, after our hike, I sure missed having that coke.

AMC Center at Crawford Notch

Our next stop was at the AMC center at Crawford Notch.  Crawford Notch is sort of the “headquarters” for the AMC White Mountain operation.  There is a lodge here, an information center, and a large conference center.  The main building for hut supplies is also located here.

After a few minutes there, we headed for our hike.  We were taking Crawford Path up to Mizpah Hut.  We wanted to surprise Herb, Dwight, and Geoff by being there when they arrived.  Mizpah was their destination for tonight.

Upper Gibbs Falls along Crawford Path

The Appalachian Trail has a reputation among its hikers for the numerous “pointless ups and downs”.  In this area, not only does it go up and down, it also goes around in circles.  In it’s traverse of the Presidential Range, the AT goes over just about all the highest peaks.  Today, our boys went over Mt Jackson on their 7 mile hike to Mizpah Hut.  Gene and I got to Mizpah via Crawford Path which is a lot less steep and only a third of the distance.  We waited at the hut for nearly two hours, but Herb and crew did not arrive before we had to leave.

Napping while waiting

Somebody we did see that we certainly didn’t expect to was Eddie Bear.  We had met him while hiking in Maryland.

Because we waited so long hoping to see Herb, et al, we were late getting home.  We had quick showers, then dinner, and now we are ready to crawl into bed.  It was a long day, but a very nice day.  Life is so good.

Highwater Trail

We found another easy trail today.  The Highwater Trail runs a total of 9.6 miles.  We tried to do the upper 3 miles a few days ago, but turned back because of a difficult stream crossing.

Today, we started at the lower end and hiked along the Wild River for about 4 miles.  We crossed several small brooks along the way, but nothing that posed any problems.  In fact, most of these small streams were so narrow we could almost step over them.

It was a very pleasant hike on an almost soft treadway covered in leaves or pine needles with very few roots and hardly any rocks.  The only thing we were disappointed in was not having a nice rock with a view of the river for our lunch break.  We ended up sitting on my poncho at the edge of the trail.  It was alright, though, cause the ground was soft with a thick layer of leaves.

Bridge over Wild River

Gene brought along the stove again today, but it was too hot and humid for me to want a hot beverage for lunch.  He, however, just so he could play with his stove, made himself a cup of hot chocolate.

There are storms in the forecast for this afternoon and the sky is already beginning to look threatening.  After this weather rolls through, we should have clear skies for the next three days.  That’s good, cause a couple of our hiking buddies from Nashville are arriving today to hike the high peaks.

Our very good friend, Herb, has been going out on the Appalachian Trail for a few weeks every year for several years.  He started at Springer Mountain in Georgia and has worked his way north.  This year he plans to finish his trek of the AT, beginning at Crawford Notch and finishing on top of Mt Kathadin.

Over the years we’ve known Herb (about 12-15 years), he’s been one of those friends we could depend on through think and thin.  He has come to our rescue numerous times.  Our purpose in coming to New England this summer was to support Herb in his last AT section.  It’s just a little way to pay him back for all the help he’s been to us.

We’ll meet him for breakfast in the morning at Pinkham Notch, then shuttle him around to Crawford Notch where he will begin his hike.  As he moves north, we’ll meet him at the road crossings and shuttle him into town for his resupplies.  We love ya, Herb, and we’re looking forward to being your “people”.

Herb’s not hiking alone; another of our friends, Dwight, will be doing the entire 345 mile section with him.  There is also another fellow coming (whom we haven’t met) who will only be doing the section through the White’s.  We are all anxious for this great adventure to get started.

So, I think that’s all I know for today.

Talk, Talk,Talk

I’m not sure what all we had planned for this morning, but we ended up talking.  Sometimes we just have to catch up on our talking to each other.  It seems strange that we spend every day together, but still get behind in our gab sessions.  When we’re at home, we each are involved in our own activity and don’t break away to have a real conversation.  We spend hours together on the trail, but are either far enough apart to prevent conversation or are absorbed in the experience enough to not want to break the spell by talking.  Generally, on the trail we are working so hard we can hardly breathe much less talk.  This morning we just chatted away about our dreams and expectation of the RVing lifestyle.

We love this lifestyle.  As with any endeavor, there are tradeoffs.  But, we enjoy being on the road and having the freedom to travel around this great land.  The benefits we derive from that experience far outweigh the sacrifices we make to be here.

Yesterday was a fairly relaxing day.  There were a few household chores to attend to plus the grocery shopping, but we were finished with those things before lunch and the afternoon was free for the fun stuff.

Rain was in the forecast so we had not planned to hike today.  After a few showers very early this morning, it hasn’t rained, but the sky looks like it could any minute.  We’ll spend the rest of the afternoon catching up on blogs we follow, internet surfing, and emails.

Two lazy days in a row--that’s fun.

That’s all for today.

Where, Oh Where Did The Bridge Go

We were back on the trail again today.  This time, for something really flat, we walked along the Wild River.  However, this hike didn’t turn out to be quite as carefree as we expected.

With the guidebook and map, Gene had created a loop for us by hiking up river on the Wild River Trail, crossing over at Spider Bridge to connect with the Highwater Trail for our hike down river.  While driving to the trailhead, we came to the conclusion that we really didn’t know if there was a bridge at the beginning of our hike to allow us to cross back over to the trailhead parking lot from the West side of the river.  The guidebook didn’t mention a bridge in its single statement about using these two trails to make a loop.  Gene found the hike listed on Trails.com and they rated it as an entry level hike.  Fording a river would not be something a beginner should tackle, so we assumed there would be a bridge.

We came up with a plan--do the Highwater Trail upstream instead of down.  That way, if there was no bridge, we’d know it at the beginning of the hike.

We parked the truck, pulled on our packs and headed toward the river.  To our surprise, there was no bridge.  Well, that answers that question.  So instead of a loop, we’d just go up and back on the same trail.  We headed out.  Within a half mile we came to a trail junction for a trail we knew went up the mountain on the other side of the river.  We walked over, and low and behold there was a bridge.  Wonderful.  We walked over the bridge and headed up the Highwater Trail.

I was a little confused by the “highwater” trail.  I figured it was an alternative to the Wild River Trail during spring and other times when the river might be higher than normal.  Apparently, I was wrong about that because the Highwater trail followed much closer to the river and at a much lower level along the bank than what we had seen of the Wild River trial.

We walked about a quarter mile and came to a stream crossing.  There were rocks for somebody with long legs to hop across, but my little short legs just wouldn’t reach.  The water was too swift for me to feel comfortable crossing.  The guidebook mentioned two stream crossings.  If I forced myself to get across this one, would I be able to cross the next?  Better to be safe than sorry, so we went back to the Wild River Trail.

After the trail junction on the Wild River trail we quickly passed into Wild River Wilderness area.  The trail veered back toward the river and followed closely even though we were up twenty feet or so from the water.  The trail was an old forest service road and was wide, flat, and free of large rocks.  We had one small brook to cross, but it was not a problem.

All that's left of Spider Bridge

We finally came to Spider Bridge, but there was no bridge.  There was nothing left but the concrete pillars it had rested on.  Good thing we didn’t need it to cross the river.  Apparently, when this area was designated a Wilderness area, the bridge was removed.  It would really have been nice to know that ahead of time.

Wild River

We went on up the trial and quickly found a trail junction where the trail had been rerouted to a safer crossing area.  While we sat on a rock for our lunch, I surveyed the river and the row of rocks meant to be used for crossing.  I don’t think I could have gotten across without getting wet feet.

Even with all those surprises, we still enjoyed the hike.  The trail was easy, the sound of the water was pleasant, and the forest was lovely.  It turned out great even if we didn’t get to make a loop.