Wildcat River Trail

It’s hard to believe this is the last day of August already.  Where has this month gone?  They say, “time flies when you’re having fun.”

Carter Notch Pond for lunch

Yesterday, we made a return trip to Carter Notch Hut.  We approached from the back side this time; we hiked up Wildcat River Trail.  The trailhead is at the very end of Carter Notch Road in the small community of Jackson.  Our guidebook suggested driving another mile along a forest service road which intersects Carter Notch Road to reduce the hiking distance by a mile.  However, that road was gated when we arrived so we got to walk the mile after all, making it an eight mile day instead of six.

Crossing Wildcat River

The trail was nice--mostly dirt with some areas covered in pine needles and relatively few rocks.  There were several boggy areas and a few streams to cross.  The boggy areas had logs for crossing, even if they were mostly rotted.  What little was left still kept our feet dry.  All the streams were rock hops.  Some of the rocks were a little far apart for my short legs, but I managed not to fall.  Trekking poles really come in handy when crossing streams.  The last half mile of the trail up to Carter Notch Hut was very steep, but no rock scrambles.

We had our lunch down by the pond.  The pond was still very nice, but the water level was down about a foot from our previous visit a month ago.  There were still a few pond lilies, but not nearly as many as before.  The trees are starting to take on the yellows and reds of fall.  It won’t be long before the snow flies.

Wildcat River Trail is the easiest trail to Carter Notch Hut (in my opinion), but we didn’t see any other hikers either going up to the hut or coming down.  At the hut, we only saw one other couple (besides the hut croo) who were there to spend the night.  You can definitely tell the vacation season is winding down.

Today will be devoted to chores--grocery especially.  The food supply is getting dangerously low.  The Peanut has enough food for only one more meal.

That’s it for now.  Have a great day.

Crawford Path to Mizpah Hut

Well, our friends arrived late last night from Nashville and stayed at Joe Dodge Lodge at Pinkham Notch.  We were up and out early this morning to have breakfast with them.  It’s always good to see friends.

Because we were out so early, we saw wildlife.  We got our first moose sighting since arriving in “moose country”.  It wasn’t the classic bull moose with the big antlers standing in a pond, but rather a mom and calf grazing by the highway.  By the time we got pulled over onto the shoulder and I got my camera out, they had wandered back into the woods.  Oh well, at least we finally saw moose.

There was a red fox in the parking lot as we pulled into the AMC complex at Pinkham Notch.  I’ve been trying for years to get a picture of a red fox.  They’re always too fast for me.  Once they hear our rumbling diesel engine, they’re gone.  This little fellow seemed quit content to be wandering among the parked cars.

First order of business was breakfast.  There is a small cafeteria at the Visitor Center which serves an all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast.  It’s just what the hunger hikers want.  We loaded up on bacon, eggs, home fries, pancakes, yogurt, fruit, and granola.  Then, we crowned this massive pile of food with homemade cranberry/orange scones.  Cup after cup of java helped to wash it all down.

We finally had to drag ourselves away from the table and the conversation in order to get moving toward the trial.  Herb, Dwight, and Geoff were starting just south of Crawford Notch where the AT crosses route 302.  It was about a 30 minute drive from Pinkham Notch to Crawford Notch.

We loaded all the packs and their other gear in the truck.  They’re staying at three of the AMC huts as they hike across the presidential range.  Because they’re staying at the huts which provide dinner, breakfast, and a bed to sleep in, they are not carrying as much gear as they will after this initial section.  We are holding this additional gear until next Saturday when they come down from Madison Hut to Pinkham Notch.  Five people, five packs, and two large duffle bags just about filled up the truck.  It was a cozy ride to Crawford Notch.

We put those boys out at the trail and watched with a little envy as they crossed the road and headed up the mountain.

Visitor Center in an old train depot

Before we could get out of the small parking lot at the trail, two other thru-hikers came out of the woods.  Whenever we see hikers on the road we ask if they need a ride, so I rolled down the window and ask.  They didn’t need a ride; they were heading on up the trail, however, they sure could use a cold drink.  I dug in the cooler for the two ice cold colas which we always take for our after hike treat and handed them over.  This afternoon, after our hike, I sure missed having that coke.

AMC Center at Crawford Notch

Our next stop was at the AMC center at Crawford Notch.  Crawford Notch is sort of the “headquarters” for the AMC White Mountain operation.  There is a lodge here, an information center, and a large conference center.  The main building for hut supplies is also located here.

After a few minutes there, we headed for our hike.  We were taking Crawford Path up to Mizpah Hut.  We wanted to surprise Herb, Dwight, and Geoff by being there when they arrived.  Mizpah was their destination for tonight.

Upper Gibbs Falls along Crawford Path

The Appalachian Trail has a reputation among its hikers for the numerous “pointless ups and downs”.  In this area, not only does it go up and down, it also goes around in circles.  In it’s traverse of the Presidential Range, the AT goes over just about all the highest peaks.  Today, our boys went over Mt Jackson on their 7 mile hike to Mizpah Hut.  Gene and I got to Mizpah via Crawford Path which is a lot less steep and only a third of the distance.  We waited at the hut for nearly two hours, but Herb and crew did not arrive before we had to leave.

Napping while waiting

Somebody we did see that we certainly didn’t expect to was Eddie Bear.  We had met him while hiking in Maryland.

Because we waited so long hoping to see Herb, et al, we were late getting home.  We had quick showers, then dinner, and now we are ready to crawl into bed.  It was a long day, but a very nice day.  Life is so good.

Appalachian Mountain Club Huts

This has been a chore day--housekeeping chores for me and truck service for Gene.  Since there is nothing of interest to report from these tasks, I thought today would be a good day to pass on a little information about the AMC huts in the White Mountains.

Galehead Hut

First, a note about AMC.  The Appalachian Mountain Club was founded in 1876, making it the oldest nonprofit organization of this type in America.  Their mission is to promote protection, appreciation, enjoyment, and wise use of the natural areas of the North East Appalachian Mountain region.

The AMC is comprised of 90,000 members in 12 chapters scattered from Maine to Washington, DC.  They have 20,000 volunteers and 450 full and part time staff.  The club sponsors some 8,000 outings each year from backcountry survival schools to river sports.  They operate lodges, campgrounds, cabins and shelters. And for us hikers, they maintain 1500 miles of trail, 350 of which are along the world famous Appalachian Trail.

Greenleaf Hut

They also operate 8 huts about a days hike apart along the Appalachian Trail in the White Mountains.  We visited 6 of these huts in 2006 when we were last here.  We spent the night at Zealand Hut. Last week we went to Carter Notch Hut.  The only hut we haven’t yet visited is Madison.

Lake of the Clouds Hut just below Mt Washington

Although the huts are located on the Appalachian Trail, there are other trails to each hut.  These other trails are generally not as strenuous a hike and are a shorter distance than hiking the AT.

The huts are not the typical 3-sided lean-tos we are so familiar with along the AT.  They are more like a rustic, backcountry bunkhouse.  The huts range in size and may accommodate 36-90 guests.  Breakfast, dinner, and some bedding are provided so hikers can experience an overnight adventure without having to carry all your supplies on your back.

Lonesome Lake Hut

Breakfast and dinner are served family style in a central dining hall.  The meals vary at the hut each night and are all hearty fare for the hungry hikers.  Our meal at Zealand Falls Hut consisted of soup, lasagna, salad, green beans, bread, and dessert. Most huts bake bread or cookies to serve during the day…all you can eat for a buck.  Some huts will prepare soup for hikers passing by during the day.

The sleeping area is dormitory style.  A pillow and blankets are furnished so you only have to bring your sheet and pillow case or a sleeping bag.  Of the 7 huts we have visited, Lonesome Lake and Carter Notch are composed of several buildings.  The other huts are contained in one structure.  There will be 2 or 3 large bunk rooms and 2 or 3 smaller “family rooms” located off of the central dining room.  At Lonesome Lake and Carter Notch the bunk houses are separate from the dining hall.

Mispah Springs Hut

The “bathroom” facilities are also contained within the hut structure with the exception of Lonesome Lake and Carter Notch.  I use the term “bathroom” very loosely.  These facilities are really composting pit toilets. However, except that the toilet doesn’t flush, the bathroom is very similar to any you would find in any public place.  Depending on the number the hut accommodates there are several stalls and sinks.  They even have mirrors and running water, although there is no hot water.  They also do not provide paper towels, so you need to either wipe you hands on your pants, drip dry or bring you own towel.

So what draws folks to the huts?  Most huts have some sort of “feature”.  Lonesome Lake, Carter Notch, and Lake of the Clouds have lakes.  There are, of course, the million dollar views.  From Lake of the Clouds you have a superb view of Mt. Washington just a mile and a half away. Mt. Lafayette is in clear view from Greenleaf hut just a little over a mile away.

Some folks may go for the sense of remoteness and the backcountry experience. You do have to walk, no hut is accessible by car.  The closest hut to a road is, surprisingly, Lake of the Clouds a mile and a half from the Mt Washington Auto road.  That’s how Gene and I got to Clouds Hut.  We drove up the Mt. Washington Road and walked down to the hut along the AT.  Of course, we had to walk back up again.

The young folks who are the hosts at the huts are the ones who bring the food up on their backs.  Think about food for 90 guests for dinner and breakfast.  Makes my back hurt.  There are 4-5 hosts at each hut and they make only 2 trips a week for food.  At the beginning of the season, staples are airlifted in, but that still leaves a whole lot of fresh veggies, fruit, and dairy products to be carried in weekly. The tradition is that boys resupplied the hut and these hut boys would compete with each other to see who could carry the most weight.  Today, the hut crews (or croos as they are actually called) are both men and women and the women help with resupply.  For safety reasons, there is also a limit to how much each is allowed to carry.  They still, however, use the traditional pack boards to carry the loads.

Resupplying the hut is a labor of love

The hut croos also provide the nightly entertainment with skits, talks, and/or live music.  The talks and skits are usually geared toward teaching good stewardship of the environment, especially wilderness places like the White Mountains.

Zealand Falls Hut

Our overnight visit was to Zealand Falls Hut.  This hut was built in 1932 and accommodates 36.  Zealand’s feature is the water falls.  Because of the short, easy walk to this hut, many, many hikers come just to spend the day.

 A typical bunk room

Tomorrow, the weather is supposed to be clear.  We may take in Madison Hut.  We’ll see.